Using
a tripod or monopod upon which to rest the camera and pivot it
around the lens nodal point seems a good idea, and pretty essential when the stitch involves
several image rows or a wide panoramic view over 100º.
However, much depends on where the tripod mount is on your camera in
relation to the lens, and the type of head that is fitted to your
tripod or monopod.
Camera
tripod mounts
Most
DSLR's tripod mounts are situated directly inline with the lens
axis, although usually well behind where the nodal point range will
be situated.
Digicam
tripod mounts are often located nowhere near the lens at all, which
then makes life very difficult if not impossible. This Pentax Optio
model isn't too bad, not in line with the lens maybe but nearer than
many we have seen, including some where the mount is at the opposite
end of the camera to the lens. This doesn't usually matter of
course, but in this instance it does.
As
we stated on the first page in reference to finding the lens nodal
point, as the tripod mounts are usually situated well behind the
nodal range, using these mount points with which to pivot the camera
produces quite obvious parallax error, while pivoting anywhere under
the lens seems not to. Well not in our experience anyway.
Monopods/Tripods
On
the face of it a monopod seems a good cheap way of providing
support, but there are a number of points to watch if using one.
Besides having to pivot the camera around where the mount
point is, which is no better than hand holding, and can be worse, there
is the danger that relying on the monopod can lead to the camera
ending up pointing upwards or downwards rather than staying level.
The other problem is keeping it level as you then rotate it.
And
this is a basic requirement. If you are using a monopod or tripod to
take a wide panorama, anywhere between 100° and 360°, it's
pretty essential to have the camera rotate on the level. It's not
enough to ensure the camera's level however, the supporting
device must also be level, in all aspects. Not just the head used,
the base as well. Many tripods
now have spirit levels built into their heads, but this doesn't
actually help level the tripod, only ensure the camera platform is
level, which is fine for a fixed view, but not much good for a
rotatable one.
So
in one sense a tripod is better to use than a monopod, in that the
platform will be more stable and less likely to veer off the
horizontal or vertical planes whilst being rotated, but no better in
that the camera still rotates around the mount point and not the
nodal point. An added problem is that some tripod head camera mounts
aren't actually situated over the tripod pivot point but to one
side. Therefore In
some respects using a monopod or tripod can actually lead to a worse
situation than hand holding. The only real benefit is that
slower shutter speeds can be used with smaller aperture's and thus
greater depth of field.
A
secondary problem, as if this isn't enough, is that all of this only
applies if you use the camera in the landscape position. You can't
use either a monopod or a tripod if you want to use the portrait
mode. Why not? Simple. Whatever
head you have fitted, pan and tilt, ball, altering it's position to
mount the camera in portrait orientation moves the camera and it's
lens sideways, well away from the pivot point. It doesn't matter in
normal use of course, but again here it does. The lens centre line is thus
to one side of the line the nodal point should be situated on, and
so if you rotate it like this it's a bit like being on a funfair
ride, it goes in a circle around the pivot point.
So
all things considered using a tripod or monopod on their own isn't
really of much benefit over hand holding, which is why we invariably
hand hold for what we term 'compact panoramas', i.e. those under
about 100°, even multiple row jobs.
Panoramic
Heads
It's
for the reasons outlined above that
certain makers, Manfrotto, Novaflex and Kaidan amongst others, (we
seem to discover new one's all the time), offer
Panoramic/VR heads and other equipment to help the picture taking
sequences for those who might
like to invest in them. These are designed to help find the nodal
point for the lens used, and to allow the camera to be rotated by a
set number of degrees around
their own base's fitted onto the tripod head, the tripod heads not
being used for the rotation, the idea being that once levelled they
will stay that way whatever the rotation.
As
we said previously, finding the lens nodal point is a matter of
moving the camera backwards and forwards until the correct point is
found by observation. Two methods are normally used. Either the
camera is moved along a slot which is used for the camera retention
screw and clamped tight when in the correct position, which is crude but
effective and quick. Or it's fitted on a base which is then moved. The second
method usually involves movement via a screw thread, which is good
for absolute precision, but slow. Additional methods are often used,
depending on the design, so that once found, the nodal point for a
particular lens focal length can easily be set again, without
further re-setting. In one sense it helps if you use just one or two
focal lengths, or one or two lenses, as it's easier and quicker to
set up correctly. Prime/mono/single focal length lenses are better
to use in that there is no chance of the focal length altering
whilst setting or in use, as
can happen with zooms. The amount of movement needed to move a zoom
from a 24mm setting to a 28mm one is not much in actual terms, and
you may not notice it when concentrating on other aspects of taking
a shot, but it can have a serious impact if it is one of a number
destined for a stitch.
There
seems to be a considerable number of heads made, using various different designs. Two things that
appear common are that all the heads are made in metal, and that none of this equipment is cheap, ranging from around £150 up to £400 and
more. Here is a view of the head available from Novaflex. It
costs at present around £240.
Novaflex
Panoramic Tripod Head
It's
a small neat design using dovetail slides to align the camera to the
nodal point for the lens fitted, and a simple swivel base, there's
no pre-determined click stop settings as Kaidan use. Anyone
who is familiar with engineering will quickly spot that it is a
variation on the basic design used in metal lathe compound cross
slides, [these are the parts that the cutting tools are mounted on
and movement is usually in two axis, some also swiveling to allowing
taper turning]. Unlike some other makes the L-shaped camera
bracket allows the camera to be used in either landscape or portrait
mode, although there is no provision for multiple row shooting, and
because of the design, none possible.
Kaidan
make a range of different heads, some specific to certain digicams, but most are designed only for
portrait use. If you look around on the web it appears to be the
orientation setting most panoramic users prefer. It does give a
deeper vertical view if taking just single row cylindrical panorama's, which is
what it seems most do, but to our mind it's a bit restrictive.
Another point is that most panoramic heads, whether they support
both orientations or not, are primarily only designed to shoot single row
panorama's. To take multiple rows extra equipment is needed.
Considering the cost of these items we have to say we are not overly
impressed.
Heads
designed primarily for single row portrait use have arisen mainly
because of the software used until recently. At first, Panoramic
stitching was restricted to narrow single row use, so using the
portrait position with a wide angle lens, many using fish-eye lenses
where available, meant a 360° spherical QTVR could be assembled
from just one circular row stitch. Now that the software has
improved to the point that multi-row/multi-image stitches can be
assembled this requirement is not so crucial, and narrower view
lenses, cheaper to obtain and with less distortion, can be used
instead. The problem is that in many cases the
Panoramic head designs cannot be modified, and must therefore stay as they are.
As
a result, some time ago we designed and built our own panoramic head.
It's of fairly basic construction, using wood, but does what it was
intended to do, help us take horizontal and vertical multiple row images through 360°
should we choose. We have written a page on this Panoramic Head
for those who might like to try this for themselves.
If
you don't have the time, ability, or inclination to build your own
head, but would like to try using one at the cheapest possible cost,
then the Panosaurus head from Greg Rubottom http://gregwired.com/Pano/Pano.htm
is
one to consider at currently just $75.95. Made in
plastic and metal it's a single arm portrait type design that can be
used to take multiple images. A review of it
can be found at http://www.tawbaware.com/panosaurus_review.htm
The
next page deals with panoramic stitching software and stitching
images.