Lens Protection, Filters,
Supplementary Lenses
and accessories. Lens Hoods.
Lenses need to be treated with care and
consideration if they are to give of their best. Dropping them,
knocking them, getting them wet, scratching the front element etc,
are all acts likely to lead to them ceasing to work properly, if at
all, or give poor
images if they do. A scratch on the front element of a lens usually
renders it useless, unless it is very minor, as it introduces
reflections into the image besides degrading the image quality where
the scratch is. For this reason a general action many photographers
take with their lenses is to permanently keep Ultra-Violet [UV]
screw on filters fitted on the front.
The
Ultra-Violet filter is regarded by many as a universal standard
fitment for SLR lenses. As well as offsetting the effects UV light
has on an image - distant views can have a blue cast and look hazy -
these colourless filters also protect the lens front element from
scratches and dirt. Unlike most other filters they don't stop any
visible light from entering the lens [most filters - depending on
the type - reduce varying
amounts of visible light from
entering the lens resulting in slower shutter speeds]. Cheap to purchase in relation
to the cost of a lens, they can easily be replaced should damage
occur to them, without the lens being affected.
Many
photographic outlets recommend the use of 'skylight' filters instead of UV's and
say they do the same job. They don't. Skylight filters reduce the
blue cast caused by UV rays not by blocking them, but by altering
the image colour. They have a slight pink hue and add a warm cast to
images and are in fact a very weak 'warm up' filter. They do not cut
through distant haze.
Recently
we have also seen a new range of 'digitally optimized' UV filters
arrive apparently specially made for digital lenses, and at between
two and three times the price of 'normal' UV's. This seems to us a
load of nonsense. UV's stop UV light, that's all, nothing more,
nothing less.
Nearly all SLR lenses,
and quite a few on digicams, are fitted with screw threads
on the ends just in front of the front element to enable all types
of filters and other accessories to be used with them, square
filters systems and ring-flash units for example. There are one or
two exceptions, extreme wide-angle or fish eye types often do not
have filter threads as using filters with them is not feasible,
vignetting would result. Filters have identical threads to those
fitted to lenses so other filters and accessories can be fitted onto
them in the same way they fit the lens.
Here are shots of a UV
filter, a lens as purchased, a filter in place on the lens, and a manual ring-flash unit on the front of a
macro lens.
Unfortunately it's not usually possible to fit UV
filters for protection on many digicam lenses because of the general
method of their construction and use. Most digicam lenses retract
into the camera body when not in use, to protect them and reduce the
size of the camera. They telescope out for use when the camera
is powered up. Some, such as this Pentax Optio model, have lens
protection blinds that close over the lens when the camera is not in
use protecting it against scratches. Of course this means that to
keep the lens protected the camera needs to be turned off and on in
between use. Not much of a problem if there is a large time gap
between use, but frustrating if it's measured in minutes rather than
hours. If the camera is allowed to go into the 'sleep' mode many
have, where the camera powers down without retracting the lens, and
is 'woken' up by pressing any button, whilst this means the camera
reacts more quickly and power is saved by not moving the lens, the
downside is the lens is vulnerable to knocks.
There are some Digicams that are
supplied with or can use lens adaptors. This is very useful as
usually it means that supplementary lenses, filters, and other
accessories can be used with them in the same way as with SLR's.
Here is one such camera, the Epson 3000z/3100z.
As you can see the adaptor is a tube that fits over
the lens like a sleeve and screws into the camera body. It is shown
here fitted with a UV filter. The adaptor, with filter, is kept
permanently in place and means the lens is protected at all times.
The camera can be left to go into it's 'sleep' mode with no danger
of the lens being knocked.
Sometimes it is possible to buy supplementary lenses
to fit a digicam's zoom lens, which provide either a wider or longer
view. Usually these are made by the camera maker but there are some independent
makers such as Raynox which also produce these lenses. Here is one
such lens, a 1.8x telephoto converter, complete with adaptor to
enable it to be used with the Epson 3000z/3100z. Different adaptors
are provided depending on the camera to which the lens will be
fitted. Sometimes, as in this case, the lens converter and adaptor
combine to make rather a large fitment on the front of a digicam. Regrettably
there is no thread provided to enable a UV filter to be fitted.
Unfortunately using such supplementary lenses does
not always provide the versatility that you might expect, indeed
their usefulness can be extremely limited. On the Epson whilst it
does provide the equivalent of a 189mm focal length when the camera lens is
zoomed to it's maximum, that's all you can use it for.
It does not alter the whole focal range by 1.8x. You can't use it
with the camera's lens at other focal lengths or the shot turns out
as if it has been taken through a tube, as in the second shot. It
does serve to show that camera lenses produce circular images
though! You can always crop the image of course, but then you could
in all probability have got the same size of final image just by
using the standard camera lens on it's own.
However you can use certain other fittings with the
basic adaptor and here is a view of a manual macro-flash unit fitted
on the camera via the adaptor. To use an external flash like this
the camera does need to have a flash hot-shoe and a manual/external
flash mode - all points to bear in mind when buying a digicam.
Lens
Hoods
Increasingly
many DSLR lenses and some digicams are being supplied as standard
with lens hoods. Sometimes these are simple screw-in circular types
but with lenses that cover a wide angle dedicated bayonet type
'petal' shaped versions are often now used.
The
basic principle behind the use of a lens hood is that it helps to
stop extraneous light from hitting the lens front element at an
oblique angle causing flare and image degradation. This mostly
occurs when taking shots at an angle to the sun's position in the
sky which is at 90° or less to the direction of the lens.
They
are of use not only with lenses that cover wide views but longer
focal lengths too, and you often find that the expensive fast
aperture long telephoto types that have very large front elements
have very large built-in lens hoods as part of the overall design.
However
whilst the use of lens hoods has always been recommended, until more
recent times very few were made to suit individual lenses and even
fewer lenses were supplied with them as standard. As a result there
are a number of 'standard' screw-in lens hoods made to suit any lens
according to it's filter size. Generally they come in two types to
cover normal focal length and wider focal length lenses, and they
are usually made in either rubber or metal. Whilst they are perhaps
not quite as good as a hood dedicated to the particular lens they
are better than not using a hood at all.
Hoya,
the well known makers of high quality camera lens filters make a
multiple purpose rubber hood which they call the wide lens hood.
This is a screw-in type that can be altered to suit the focal length
of the lens by pulling it in and out. It has three positions. Wide,
Standard, and Tele. Here are some shots of it. Very useful at around
£10.