Buying Secondhand 

There has always been a considerable market in used/secondhand camera equipment. There are a number of reasons why it - or pre-owned as some would call it - is preferable to the purchase of new. For some it is down simply to a matter of economics, that the purchase of an item new cannot be afforded for one reason or another, or that the cost new cannot be justified, but a lower secondhand purchase price can.

But there are other reasons too. The item you require may no longer be available new, or by accepting used goods you may be able to acquire something of better quality or higher specification than something purchased new at the same price. The only downside with the purchase of secondhand goods is the measure of uncertainty that comes with them as to their condition. Have they been damaged in any way, or do any faults exist? The condition of simple goods can easily be seen and assessed. It is more difficult with more complex items such as cameras, who by their nature are mechanical, electronic, or more usually, a mix of the two.

As digital camera ownership has increased in popularity, and keen users have upgraded to those models with the latest specification, so a market in used digital cameras has arisen. As with film cameras this mainly revolves around those that are quite expensive to buy new, either system cameras, DSLR's etc, or those that command really high prices either new or used. There is generally very little in the way of ordinary digital compact cameras, especially amongst camera dealers, since once they are in used condition they have little re-sale value, and their life expectancy is not considered long anyway.

The aim with this page is to bring to your attention points that you really need to bear in mind should you decide to buy a used digital camera rather than a new one. Things that need to be checked prior to purchase because afterwards will be too late. For whilst all new goods sold come with a guarantee, usually for a year, there are no such universal arrangements to protect a buyer of used goods.

Considering secondhand

From a camera dealer

If you buy used equipment it is more than likely that this will be through a camera dealer. And this does bring certain benefits. One is that you are almost certain to get a guarantee of some kind against any faults arising with it's use. In all probability this will be for either 3 or 6 months (any longer is rare), and will usually be linked to the type and cost of what you have bought. The cheaper the item the lower the level of guarantee. It is also probable that any item offered for sale by a dealer has been checked to ensure that it is in reasonable condition, which of course may vary and be reflected in it's price, and in full and proper working order. No dealer of secondhand goods wants to sell faulty items. It won't do their reputation any good, or ensure a chance of repeat business. 

Those dealing in secondhand cameras has shrunk in recent years in the UK, a situation we understand that is being repeated around the globe. Instead of many small dealers and several national concerns all dealing in used equipment this has changed, with national chains dropping secondhand dealing altogether. No longer either taking older goods in part-exchange or offering them for sale. Coupled with the closure of many small camera shops there are not as many outlets left that now deal with used goods. 

This has to a certain extent been offset by some of those dealers remaining becoming 'specialists' in secondhand goods, maintaining extensive websites listing all the items available. The upside to this is that if a particular camera or accessory item is sought it is fairly easy to find if it is available secondhand. The downside is that it's impossible to assess it's condition. Most secondhand dealers usually 'grade' the items they sell as to it's condition, mint, excellent, average, good, fair, etc, which is helpful in a way but relies on the dealers opinion. However, most dealers offer a 'no quibble' money back guarantee to anyone not happy with their purchase, which is some reassurance.

The only rule we have adopted with regard to buying used equipment from dealers, is either to see the goods in person, or deal with those that also run camera outlets - shops - and have been in existence for some years and have a proper postal address. Dealing with website or PO Box number only concerns, i.e. those with no postal address, is not something we feel happy with, and can often lead to problems. We are always reading of someone who ordered goods over the web only to find the business is not UK based despite a .co.uk address, which is no guarantee of location of course, and have no redress over problems with the goods. Or worse, that they have disappeared without trace.

Buying privately

Although it has been stated that generally few used digital compact cameras are found for sale this does not mean that they do not exist, or that they should not be considered if found. But in this respect it is more than likely that this will be through a private seller rather than a dealer. There is generally a large amount of secondhand cameras and accessories offered for sale privately through many sources, on-line, e-bay etc, in magazines and local newspapers, and in the locality where you live, ads in newsagents windows etc. 

Buying privately brings an additional concern in that the general rule is one of 'bought as seen'. If there is any problem with what you have purchased there is no redress, no way of getting your money back, and no one to officially complain to, just the seller. When a sale is 'private' it is just that, no concern of anyone in authority or who deals with consumer issues. So all the points to watch out for when buying a used camera apply to an even greater extent when doing so privately.

And the main thing to bear in mind is this. Someone sells privately for one of a small number of reasons. It might be because they are unable to part-exchange the goods being sold, sometimes because there is something wrong with them and they just want rid of them for whatever they can get, (with the unscrupulous not revealing there is anything wrong with them), but the main one is usually that they want more for the goods than they can get by part-exchange etc. This is fair enough. Why sell to a dealer who then sells the item on for a profit. Sell them privately for the same price and gain the dealers profit for yourself, after all it's your goods. But there are also those who cannot accept that the expensive goods they bought are worth so little to a dealer at trade-in prices or even at the price being sold at secondhand in the dealers window. And they want someone to pay almost as much as they did, so they can get a new camera, new lens etc, at little extra cost.

So the golden rule is never to pay more than you would through a camera dealer for a secondhand piece of equipment, and preferably rather less, for a private seller doesn't have the dealers overheads, and you won't be getting any kind of guarantee. So it's a real case of buyer beware.

Where to start?

As we have said there are many good reasons to buy used equipment. This applies not only to cameras themselves but all the accessories that are often made to be used with them. This is particularly relevant in regard to cameras that can form part of a system when used with compatible lenses, flashguns and other accessories. DSLR's spring easily to mind because they are well known in this respect. There are many who buy items on the spur of the moment and then decided later that they don't really need or want them, and these items then usually become available used at a much reduced price compared to new, even though they might have had little or no real use. The point is, where do you start when considering used goods? 

The first thing to do is get a good idea of what you want, if you don't already know, and then get a general idea of the price range the item generally commands on the used market, by looking at dealers adverts in photographic magazines or visiting their websites if they have them.

If you want a specific item, a particular camera or accessory then that's all well and good. All you have to do is keep looking until the item you require becomes available at a price and condition you are prepared to accept. If you don't want a specific item, say you just want a reasonably priced DSLR, then you're in the same basic position you would be if you were buying new, finding out what's on offer, making comparisons, and then choosing the item that suits you best.

When you buy digital camera equipment there are points to watch irrespective as to whether it is new or used. But with secondhand there are points that it is even more important to check, and some that it is best not to ask the seller of the goods about but find the answer to yourself. It is for example no good relying on the sellers assurance that spare memory cards or batteries are available for a camera they are selling, if it later turns out that this is not true.

So spur of the moment decisions to buy used camera equipment are  not really to be recommended. Making a quick decision to buy something you've be looking for that suddenly turns up at an unexpected moment is a different matter. You should already have a good idea of what you expect to pay for it and the condition it's in you are prepared to accept, and it's then down to whether the item found matches or exceeds those criteria. If you find an item for sale at a much lower condition than you would normally be prepared to accept, but is reflected by a much lower asking price, then it's really a question of balancing out the pro's and con's. If the condition is purely cosmetic and doesn't affect how the item works when used that is one thing. If however it impinges on it's performance, say it's a lens and the focus or zoom action is stiff or erratic, or the front element is scratched, then that is a different matter altogether.

When you are considering purchasing a used item where the demand exceeds the supply, where it is rare to find it for sale secondhand, then of course this must be taken into account. But don't be tempted to pay more for something than you think it's worth to you just because it's rare. If it's in poor condition or overpriced, going without might just turn out to be better in the long run.

Points to consider

Camera system compatibility

A major point to check is DSLR system compatibility. This was not a big issue in the past with SLR's but is becoming one now. At one time what is known as backwards compatibility, the ability to use all products for a certain manufacturers camera system together, whenever they were made, was taken for granted. Camera makers made sure they were, it was part of the appeal of investing in such systems in spite of the expense. They could be developed over a period of years, bought just a bit at a time. This attitude seems to have gone out of the window in recent years as far a camera makers are concerned, especially since the arrival of DSLR's although they would rather it wasn't widely known, but only discovered at a stage when it's too late to do anything about it.

Increasingly items are arriving that only work with certain others with matching specifications, and past specifications are often no longer supported. Nikon are now making new VR (vibration reduction) lenses that won't work with older camera designs, and new cameras that won't work with older lenses. Most of the newer Canon and Pentax DSLR's won't work with any past TTL flashguns of any kind, only the very latest flashguns they make. So that older Nikon lens or Canon/Pentax flashgun that looks a used bargain might not turn out to be so if it won't work with the newer camera equipment you have.

Many other instances like this can also be found with other makers, these are just examples, and means that when you are looking for used equipment you must be very careful, and not make assumptions as to compatibility, but check this aspect thoroughly to your satisfaction.

Checking a Camera

With a used digital camera several aspects immediately come to mind before you even look at a camera's condition. These are the questions you should ask yourself.

• What is the condition of the current battery the camera has? Can I get spare/replacement batteries for it, and how long will I be able to do so, just for the immediate future or the longer term? 

• What type of memory cards are used? Is there a capacity limit? Are they current or obsolete and if not are they likely to become so in the near future?

• What software supplied with the camera when new is included? 

• Have any firmware updates been installed, or are any still available if produced by the maker but not installed?

Okay, here are some aspects arising from these questions that must be considered. Firstly it's not a good idea to rely on either the batteries or memory cards that might be offered with the camera. You have no knowledge of their history, how they have been treated/used/abused, or how long they are likely to last. They may be fine, and last a long time. On the other hand they may cease working soon after you buy the camera, who can tell?  

As a first step we would recommend that you read our pages on  Memory Cards  and familiarize yourself with the types that are current and those now obsolete and the points regarding compatibility and maximum capacities. Then look at what we have written regarding the types of camera  Batteries  that exist and the problems that can occur.

Now consider the implications that can be drawn, and points and questions that need to be satisfied. 

Batteries:  A camera that uses AA's is a safe buy. They are easily obtained and will never become obsolete. Dedicated battery packs are a different matter and care must be taken to make absolutely certain that replacements are easy to source and will be for some time to come. In this respect a camera from a major maker that was popular and sold in large numbers is a safer buy.

Memory Cards:  The older the camera the more chance there is that memory card compatibility and capacity problems may exist. The latest cards have capacities far in excess of that available in the past and use different formatting, Fat32 instead of Fat16. Firmware updates are available for some cameras to enable Fat32 card use. Generally any card over 2Gb is Fat32. Those that use Compactflash are the best bet, followed by SD. We would advise buyers to avoid cameras using Smartmedia if possible. Besides the obvious problems that arise because they are now obsolete, the fact is that they weren't terribly good anyway, often giving problems in use, poor connectivity etc.

Software: Although it may be felt that software that is supplied with a camera isn't really needed in these days of cheap memory card readers, in many cases it enables aspects that cannot be carried out any other way. Some allow a camera to be connected to, and controlled by, a computer. Some older models also require this for the loading of firmware updates. With newer models that can produce Raw files, the software supplied by the camera maker is often the only way to process them. So lack of software can mean more additional outlay. However most camera makers have details of such software on their websites, which can be downloaded if needed. Some upgrade their software for new cameras, and those with older cameras can also download this if desired in many cases.

Firmware Updates: Just because a camera maker has issued updates for a camera doesn't mean that they have been loaded into the camera you are considering purchasing. So this is another point to take note of. Most makers have websites where updates applicable to any camera they made can be found and downloaded. Many also include details of how this should be undertaken. 

Connecting Cables etc: The same comments apply here as to software. Dedicated cables are often needed to be able to connect to computers and TV's to transfer files and play videos from a camera. These are not universal fitments and vary from maker to maker, and camera to camera.

Camera condition

There are really two parts to examining a camera and checking it's condition. The cosmetic aspect as regards wear and tear in respect of scuff marks, dents and scratches. And the working condition as to whether all it's features operate as they should. They are best checked out together because one almost certainly impinges on the other 

Not everybody treats their possessions with the same care and respect as others might afford them, some treating them in a rough and ready fashion, and of course minor accidents can happen to anybody, so a body that looks at first to be in well worn state, might turn out to work well with no problems, whilst another that appears pristine may have any number of minor issues. However, as a general rule cosmetic appearance tends to indicate the state of probable working condition, so a camera that is in poor cosmetic condition should be checked more thoroughly to ensure there are no ensuing problems with it.

The points to check here vary according to the camera type, and to be perfectly honest some cameras have so many options that it can take a considerable time to check that each and every feature works, all the menus and sub-menus in both capture and review modes. In many cases this just won't be possible, but a minimum number of checks should be made. These should indicate if any really major problems exist and the camera should be discounted, and if the seller objects to these being undertaken, well the answer is just to walk away.

Check that all the buttons, dials and switches work as they should. That access to the battery and memory card compartments is also as it should be, no contacts are damaged, and the flaps and their hinges work and close properly. The battery should be able to be inserted and removed without cause for concern and the camera work as soon as it is fitted and powered up. The same remarks apply to the memory card slot and memory card. In the case of a digicam, when it is powered up the lens appears, zooms in and out, focuses at all settings, and the lens retracts again when it is powered down. Check that there are no marks or scratches on the front of the lens element. If any exist at all, dismiss the camera instantly. The chance is that image quality would be compromised - and in many cases it could be rendered almost useless - and just isn't worth the risk. It might not affect image quality too much indoors, or even when using flash, but outdoors, in sunlight, it most certainly would. Take a shot with the camera and make sure that it is saved properly to the memory card and can be viewed on the rear LCD screen post capture.

With a DSLR the same basic procedure applies but a slightly different approach must be taken and depends on whether the camera is being bought body only, or complete with a lens. If it is body only, a lens that is known to work properly should be taken to test on it. Don't be tempted to buy a DSLR body on it's own for which you have no lens, and none is available with which to test on it. Without a suitable lens there is no way of assessing whether a DSLR works at all. Just switching it on and seeing the camera menus work is no guarantee at all that the camera will work and take a picture when a lens is mounted on it. Any one of a number of problems night exist, the AF, metering may be faulty, there would be no way to tell.

Because DSLR lenses are to an extent independent items, although most DSLR's are sold with a basic zoom lens when new, we will look at this aspect separately.

Other Accessories

Most of the basic rules that apply to purchase of a digital camera in respect of what to look for and check also apply to most other camera equipment. This is particularly so in respect of lenses and flashguns used with the various DSLR systems.

Lens Condition

The first thing to check with any DSLR lens is that it's lens elements are clean and mould and scratch free. This applies not only to the larger front element, but also to that at the rear, which can also be seen when the lens is removed from the camera. This is part of the internal lens grouping, and will move back and forth as the focus and zoom rings are moved. If stored badly, in high humidity conditions, or in extremes of temperature, some lenses can end up with fungus/mould growing on the lens elements. In the corners of the elements, on the outside or inside. Like scratches, mould/fungus growth usually renders a lens pretty much useless, since the effect on image quality is dire. A lens in such a condition should not be considered at all. 

When a lens is removed from the camera the internals of the lens are exposed, and damage can occur with careless handling, so check that nothing looks damaged to the naked eye. That the camera lens mount is also clean and looks to have no damage. Most are made in either precision machined chrome finished steel or stainless steel and retained with screws onto the lens. Some very cheap/light/basic standard DSLR lenses now use black plastic/polycarbonate moulded lens mounts to keep down production costs. These are still retained in place with screws. Checking these for wear and tear is doubly important since despite protestations to the contrary moulded parts like these do not have the shock and wear resistance that metal mounts afford. 

Most lens mounts these days are of the bayonet type, so the lens is pushed on and twisted into place using matching marks on the lens and camera mounts, and 'clicks' into it's proper position. It's important that a lens fits properly and easily on the camera mount for which it has been made. This is especially the case with lenses made not by a particular camera maker for their own DSLR's, but those made by the independent lens makers. Check that not only does it fit on properly, but that when fitted locks in place firmly. And that any contacts fitted, either mechanical or electrical, are clean and damage free. And that when the button is pressed that 'unlocks' the lens mount, the lens can be easily removed from the camera. Lenses that don't fit properly or easily shouldn't be forced on, or considered for purchase. Using them might cause damage to the cameras lens mount, rendering any lens later fitted on to it defective in use, thus ruining the camera.

Once these tasks have been completed, the next job is to make sure the lens actually works on the camera. Again this is especially important with independent made lenses. First put the lens into manual focus mode and check that the zoom and focus ring action is smooth and trouble free, no worrying tight spots or that it is over-loose, which can be just as bad. Then engage AF mode and check that the lens moves into correct focus at any focal length and focused distance when the shutter button is pressed halfway. It should be easy to see through the viewfinder that this is achieved. Using Av mode, aperture priority, take a series of shots to confirm the aperture shuts down to the correct values when a shot is taken at both ends of the zoom range, and at some point about halfway in-between.

We have stressed the need to check independent made lenses rather more than a makers own brand for one simple reason. Independent lenses are made to a common design, (for each particular lens the lens maker produces), which is then modified as needed to suit individual camera make needs. This may be in respect of lens mount design, or how the lens communicates with the camera. All lenses these days are 'chipped', as information is sent back and forth between camera and lens with regard to the many parameters used to achieve the best possible AF performance. All camera makers program these chips differently, and are always revising and tweaking this programming to get the best results. They don't share this programming information with others. Independent lens makers have to guess the programming, and sometimes get it wrong. Often independent made lenses won't work properly with newer cameras, they can't focus at certain distances, or the aperture settings are wrong.

Flashguns

A standard hot-shoe fitting for manual flashgun use has just one contact in the middle of the shoe, with the return being on the side. To enable a camera to take control of a flashgun for TTL use etc extra contacts are used. These are fitted around the main contact and the number used and where they are located differs according to the camera maker, there is no set design configuration, each has their own. 

Manual flashguns that only have a centre connection can be mounted and used on any camera hotshoe, Flashguns with extra 'dedicated' contacts should only ever be mounted on the camera make for which it is intended. Using incompatible flashguns can wreck a cameras electronics, and as the voltages used over the years to 'trigger' them have also changed, older flashguns shouldn't as a rule be used with newer cameras as a result.

Most flashguns use the standard AA battery so this isn't a particular problem, but some can't accept anything other than the basic alkaline or re-chargeable ni-cad types. Re-chargeable Ni-Mh's or lithium's are just too powerful. 

Another issue that arises is that the most recent DSLR's made can only use currently made flashguns with the latest specifications. This applies to most makes, Canon, Nikon, Pentax, etc. They have all introduced revised TTL specifications as regards flash, i-TTL, P-TTL, E-TTL, and this is incompatible with standard TTL, the support for which most have dropped. Many standard TTL flashguns made in the past can therefore only work on the latest cameras in manual flash mode, irrespective of their specifications. 

The simple tests we have outlined with regard to secondhand purchase are not exhaustive, and it's always possible odd faults might arise in general usage that didn't show up when a product is tested prior to purchase. This can often happen irrespective of whether the product is new or used. However we hope some of this information might be of use when you are considering buying used equipment rather than new.